INDIA

The next time a Bollywood actress invites you over for a girls’ night, take a big whiff of the kitchen. Smell that? It’s fresh flowers and coconut. They’re staples in the DIY hair masks that most Indian women are cooking up from a young age, says model Natasha Ramachandran, who is from Pune. “Indian women are gifted with thick, healthy hair. In order to keep our scalps hydrated and nourished, we use coconut- and almond-oil masks. My mother, my grandmother, my aunt, my sisters — we all grew up doing it.” Model Rasika Navare, also originally from Pune, massages coconut oil through the length of her hair once a week as well; sometimes she switches in organic argan or rose hip oil. “Hair is one of the most important aspects of beauty in Indian culture,” she says. “People around the world love thick, long Indian hair...and we know it.”

Indian women have had deep ties to their hair for centuries. A lot of their practices stem from the Hindu religion (practiced by about 85 percent of the country), and many begin at birth. Some Hindu families will ceremoniously shave the heads of their children — a tradition called chuda-karana — in order to clear them of impurities and start fresh. The sacrifice of hair is key in the Hindu religion, and many make pilgrimages to temples to offer their hair — cut from the scalp — in exchange for a blessing or as a sign of devotion.

Braids are common for very devout Hindu women, and usually only widows leave their hair down. Unbound hair is associated with “loose” women (yikes). Young Hindu girls traditionally wear two pigtail braids and then transition into womanhood with a single long braid.

But times are changing, and in 2018 these strict Hindu practices aren’t as common. Unless a woman is from a very traditional orthodox family, a single braid or updo isn’t necessary, and she can wear that famous thick, dark Indian hair in whatever way she pleases — and that includes Westernized styles like bobs and colors like...purple. But travel to rural India and you’ll likely still see that long, glossy braid down the back of a Hindu woman. And then there’s the beautiful Indian vegetation. Imagine flowers in every vivid tropical color of the spectrum — violet dahlias! Rich marigolds! Delicate pink lilies! It’s a literal garden of hair accessories, and women take advantage of the sweet smells and brilliant colors to add flair to their hairstyles for special occasions. And to imbue them with special meaning. Many women in Tamil Nadu, in southern India, fasten a string of jasmine to their hair as a symbol of good fortune. Did we mention their hair must smell incredible? I think we did.

​A version of this article originally appeared in the March 2018 issue of Allure.

DENMARK

“We are, in a way, a very uniform people. Keeping our hair the same, simple and undone, makes us feel safe,” says Copenhagen-based makeup artist Marie Thomsen. “It’s a way of showing the world that we have things under control, that we are feminine but strong.” And you’re unlikely to see a Drybar Copenhagen any time soon. “I don’t think I know anyone who does a real blowout, even when going out,” says Thomsen, who washes her hair (at home) twice a week and fills the gap with Klorane dry shampoo ($20) and a little texturizing spray. Think effortless Parisian beauty, but with even more minimalism — and a dash of hygge. “We use a lot of thick conditioners and hair masks,” says stylist Pernille Teisbaek, who relies on Kevin Murphy’s line of hair products. But there aren’t a lot of homespun recipes being passed down through the generations. “My family didn’t teach me about what to do with my hair growing up, but that’s the point,” says fashion blogger Marie Hindkær. “Danish women don’t want people to think they spend a lot of time on their hair.” Hindkær describes her fine, super straight texture as “typical Scandinavian hair.” A blast of volumizer (she likes Maria Nila Volume Spray, $31) and a touch of Moroccanoil is all she’ll admit to using. It doesn’t take more than a minute. Really.

​A version of this article originally appeared in the March 2018 issue of Allure.

​ETHIOPIA

“Ethiopian women love butter,” says model and activist Gelila Bekele, who was born in Addis Ababa. For centuries, women in Ethiopia have relied on raw, unsalted butter to nourish dry hair. “Moisture for black hair has taken myriad forms depending on availability and location,” says Noliwe Rooks, an associate professor of Africana and feminist, gender, and sexuality studies at Cornell University. “Coconut oil, ghee, and Vaseline were all key depending on where one was in the African diaspora. In some cultures, mud and clay are used to lock in moisture.” Bekele still uses raw butter in her hair today. “I apply it directly to my scalp once a week, massaging until the butter melts, and let it sit for a few hours or overnight. And the benefits are beyond hair care — it moisturizes skin.”

Of course, with so much diversity within the country, there are tons of hair secrets to mine. “Ethiopia has over 80 different ethnic groups; hair signifies something different to each tribe,” says Bekele. “They all have their own special traditions, like brides wearing silver or gold beads, partially shaved heads with intricate braids to signify youth, or using red clay to twist the hair or paint scalps.” And many women in Ethiopia dye their hair, but not with foil strips and chemical fumes. Women from the Hamer tribe use raw butter and fresh ochre, made of red clay paste, to paint their hair a deep terracotta color. They then twist their newly colored hair into thin locs called goscha. The twists are meant to signal health and vitality. Many of the hairstyles in Ethiopia are so intricate that women have even been known to preserve them by sleeping on a wooden headrest.

​A version of this article originally appeared in the March 2018 issue of Allure.

Weak hair can take on many forms and is often noticeable to others. That said, weak hair can be a detriment to our fashion sense and self image. In some cases, it can even be an indicator of a medical concern. Not sure about your hair’s health and what to do about it? The pros at Matrix are here to give you a few tips on how to make weak hair stronger.Diagnosing Weak Hair

Weak hair can be defined as limp, droopy, thin or falling out. Split ends, extreme dryness or excessive oiliness can all be signs of weak hair. It is often genetic, handed down from a parent, or it can be caused by hormonal factors such as menopause or childbirth, birth control pills or other medications, disease or illness, poor diet, stress, a fungal infection of the scalp or cancer treatments. Environmental impact from sun exposure, chlorine or salt water, air conditioning or heating and pollution can weaken hair.

It is normal to lose 100 to 150 hairs each day, but since most people have about 100,000 hairs on the head, this loss is not significant. When a hair is lost, a new one grows back in its place. This process continues until middle age, when hair re-growth slows down or stops.

Hair that is lost from breakage is not the same as normal loss. Hair that falls out naturally comes from the scalp, typically with the bulb attached. Breakage from weakness is when the hair breaks off below the scalp. While some breakage is normal, excessive breakage indicates weakened hair. Weak hair often shows itself as split ends, which can travel up the hair shaft and break off.

1. Use the Right Products to Avoid Further Damage to Weak Hair

A good stylist can help you detect and diagnose weak hair, and make recommendations on appropriate product usage. Using the best products for weak hair is essential to restoring troubled tresses. For weak, delicate hair, use a shampoo, conditioner and styling products that will reinforce the hair by infusing protein, amino acids and other strengthening properties.

Don’t use a shampoo that will dry out hair, and when using a reinforcing conditioner, start at the roots and work the conditioner through to the ends. You can enhance conditioning by wrapping a hot towel or shower cap over your head to allow it to penetrate deeply into the hair follicles and shafts. A protein mask or deep conditioning treatment can also be beneficial to locks that have lost their strength.

Keep in mind, however, that the products we use on our hair can be overdone. You can have too much of a good thing, and excessive product usage over time causes damaged and weak hair. When hair is already damaged, compensating with more product can weigh it down, making weak hair look dull and rough. Avoid styling products that contain alcohol, for example, which can be drying to hair; and try to limit shampooing to every other day or even less frequently if your scalp doesn’t produce too much oil.

2. Take Care of Weak Hair by Limiting Chemical Use

Abusing and over-processing hair can lead to weak tresses. Ongoing use of strong chemicals through coloring, bleaching, straightening or permanents can damage hair fiber and make hair weak. When used too frequently or in too strong a dose, these chemicals can cause permanent damage, making weak hair dry and frizzy, with split ends and breakage the result. Counteract chemical warfare by using a shampoo and conditioner for damaged hair and intensive conditioning treatments. Look for styling products containing stearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol that helps strengthen and soften weak hair.

For severely weakened hair, use a deep-conditioning protein treatment once a week or so. Apply the treatment all over hair that has been cleansed with a hydrating shampoo and leave it on overnight (wrap hair into a bun and sleep with a towel on your pillow). Rinse the treatment out in the morning.  When you do opt for haircolor, ask your stylist about conditioner-rich and ammonia-free professional formulas.

3. Weak Hair Hates Heat: Don’t Play With Fire

Excessive heat from blow-dryers, hot curlers, curling irons and flat irons can cause weak hair and breakage. Using a too-hot blow-dryer on wet hair heats the water remaining under the hair’s cuticle and causes it to expand inside the hair, leaving spaces--or blisters --inside fibers, which weakens hair. These parched strands soak up moisture from the air, causing frizz.

Rather than fighting your natural texture, work with what you’ve got. For straight hair, enhance its health and shine by using cleansing and conditioning products specifically designed to create shine. For curly hair, use products created for wavy texture and scrunch the hair with your fingers to reduce frizz.

To nurse fried strands back to optimum health, use a hydrating shampoo and conditioner, then fortify with a strengthening product prior to styling. Keep styling tools set on low temps, apply heat protection products before styling with dryers or irons to protect from thermal damage and follow with finishing products that are infused with protective oils.

4. Strengthen Weak Hair by Switching Up Your Style

Change how you wear your hair every day: Wearing your hair down day after day can result in tangles and split ends. But ponytails, tight braids and dreadlocks can also stress tresses and cause weakening. Switch styles every day to avoid strain on weak hair and give your look a pick-me-up. When wearing hair down, use a strengthening shampoo, conditioner and styling products to protect weak hair. When wearing it up, use fortifying gel or mousse and hair-protecting elastics with no metal on them.

The friction of over brushing and wearing tight-fitting hats can also cause hair to weaken. Don’t get too zealous when brushing, and never brush wet hair. It’s best to use padded brushes and those with animal hair bristles on delicate locks. A good detangling spray will help defend weak hair while brushing. Spritz it on before combing through wet hair to ease strand stress.

5. The Frizz Factor, and How To Prevent Frizz

When frizziness is apparent, keeping hair trimmed can help prevent further damage and stop the splits from traveling up the hair shaft.

Using a keratin shampoo and conditioner can help restore protein to weak, damaged hair and help bring it back to good health. But remember, this won’t happen overnight; you’ll need to use it regularly to notice a difference.

After shampooing, there are a variety of weak hair serums and leave-in conditioners available to help tame frizz. When using oil-based serums, avoid putting them directly on your scalp, as it can become greasy and make the roots look oily.

When styling, choose finishing products that enhance smoothness and shine.

6. How To Treat Split-Ends: A Hair Divided is Not Happy and Healthy

There is no total cure for split ends, but as mentioned above, you can keep them at bay with a trim every six to eight weeks. For more temporary remedies, use a gentle shampoo and conditioner, and apply a treatment oil to just the tips of tresses. When styling, reinforcing products are best, as they help bond the ends together.

7. How To Care For Your Scalp: Hair Health Starts at the Top

When working to heal weak hair, the first line of defense is to start with the scalp. If your scalp is healthy, your hair will follow suit. Scalps can be dry and flaky or oily, but there are products designed to work with each type.

For dry scalps that feel tight or itchy, a moisturizing oil can be massaged into the scalp for five minutes before showering. A hair mask or deep conditioning treatment will help provide moisture to dry scalps and weak hair.

If your head is itchy and you are regularly finding flakes on your shoulders, you may have dandruff. Nothing kills a good look quicker than a shoulder covered in scalp snow, so if dandruff is a problem, research the variety of dandruff shampoos, conditioners and treatments on the market, or get a recommendation from your stylist or medical provider.

8. A Healthy Diet Helps Restore Weak Hair

Weak and thinning hair can be caused by what you do to your hair, but it can also be brought on by what you do to your body. An unhealthy diet, or too-low of a caloric intake (crash diet), can lead to hair falling out, as can endocrine disorders.

What you eat has an effect on the health of your hair and scalp. The nutrients from healthy food provide the energy that fuels hair growth. A diet that includes iron-rich protein feeds your scalp and hair by building strong keratin, the protein that strengthens hair, improves texture and stimulates growth. Consume lean meat, fish, low-fat cheeses, egg whites, spinach and soy to keep your head happy in more ways than one.  In between meals, snack on fruits, vegetables and grains.

Vitamins are also key to hair health. Vitamin C, or collagen, keeps blood vessels in the scalp healthy by supporting hair follicles. Vitamin C also helps you absorb iron from plant proteins. Biotin, an essential B vitamin, strengthens weak hair and improves its texture. Biotin is found in salmon, carrots, egg yolks and sardines. Vitamin supplements can help weak hair as well. Silica, a nutrient found in oats, rice, cucumbers, asparagus, cabbage and sunflower seeds, supports growth of hair and nails, as does calcium, found in dairy products, fish and leafy greens.

Water is another essential for your body and your hair. Adequate hydration helps keep your body functioning like a well-oiled machine, and helps strengthen weak hair. It’s best to drink plenty of water throughout the day and evening.

If the hair care tips listed in this article don’t help make your weak hair stronger and thicker, pay a visit to your doctor or dermatologist to rule out a medical condition.

 
This article first appeared on Matrix.com

LIFESTYLE CHANGES TO PROMOTE GROWTH AND THE BEST HAIRSTYLES FOR THINNING HAIR

If you’re trying to grow your hair out or are starting to notice your hair thinning and want to avoid further hair loss, you may be curious about proper hair care. In fact, you may be asking yourself if there are ways to grow your hair faster and thicker. This is a question many men ask themselves regularly when looking in the mirror, wishing for longer and thicker hair. The truth is that the average rate of hair growth is about 1/2 inch per month – some guys can grow hair a little faster or slower. The fastest your hair can grow is determine by a person’s genetics. While there really is nothing that will make hair grow faster overnight, there are factors that can make it grow at your body’s optimal rate, allowing you to realise your hair’s full genetic potential. Below, we will discuss changes to your daily lifestyle, such as diet, exercise, sleep, and a good hair care regiment, that can maximise the rate of hair growth for most men.

Diet and Supplements 
A balanced diet can help provide your body’s cells with the nutrition, vitamins and minerals for healthy growth. Because hair grows from the root in the follicle made up of protein cells, a high-protein diet will give your cells the nutrition to reproduce, divide, and grow. Hair shafts are created when dead cells in hair follicles are pushed out through the scalp by newly formed cells. Providing the body with quality protein, vitamins A, B, C, E, and F, and minerals such as iron, magnesium, silica and selenium can encourage cell reproduction and faster hair growth. Plus, it doesn’t hurt that good nutrition can improve the quality of your skin.

Foods that contain these essential vitamins, especially B vitamins, include the following: Vegetables (spinach, broccoli, beans, green bell peppers, cabbage, lettuce, avocadoes, tomatoes, and carrots), Fruits (Strawberries, bananas, apricots, kiwis, cantaloupes, pineapples, peaches), Protein (Eggs, fish, chicken, turkey, steak, nuts, flaxseeds, raisins, lentils, soy products and dairy like yogurt, milk and cheese). A proper diet and the right supplement (e.g. a multivitamin), can help you ensure your hair grows as fast as it can. However, don’t bother buying any of these magic formulas that promise good hair growth on your head or face. These so-called “beard supplements” provide all the same vitamins and minerals your ordinary multivitamin does. And don’t forget – your body can only process and absorb so much of these vitamins, so buying a supplement with 500% of your daily need of biotin or vitamin E isn’t going to give you nicer facial hair.
 
Exercise, Stress and Hair Loss
Men should know that blood circulation is essential to stimulate hair growth. Regular aerobic exercise and weight-lifting can improve and maintain healthy blood flow to the scalp, carrying essential oxygen and nutrients. Even a scalp massage for 3 to 5 minutes a day, a few times a week can benefit you. Exercise and deep breathing can also relieve stress to prevent hair loss or slow hair growth, especially since stress, depression, and sleep deprivation are known to contribute to thinning hair. In addition to making your hair grow faster and longer, proper exercise will undoubtedly help you lose weight and ultimately make you look and feel better as well. 

Sleep 
Sleep deprivation is associated with serious health problems, including hair loss. During sleep, circulation to the skin and scalp is increased and the body secretes extra growth hormones that accelerate cell reproduction. Since cell reproduction makes hair grow, getting enough sleep and rest can literally make hair grow faster at night. With cell growth peaking at about 2AM in most people, getting to bed early and sleeping for 7 to 8 hours is essential.

Shampoos and Conditioners 
Do not shampoo your hair too often or every day, especially when using shampoos or conditioners that contain harsh chemicals that may leave your hair extra dry. And because dry, brittle hair is vulnerable to breakage, over-washing could be preventing your locks from reaching their maximum length. By using mild, organic shampoos and conditioners, it is possible to maintain at least some of your hair’s natural moisture and oils, and at least once a week, consider a leave-in conditioner to help retain moisture. Similarly, avoid washing our hair with very hot water, and instead finish your shower with warm or colder water to increase shine and health. 

Proper Hair Care 
Although the time it takes to grow hair longer is determined by genetics, hair that is damaged can break or fall out without reaching its full potential. Since hair is comprised of dead cells, it cannot repair itself. Guys can limit damage to their hair by avoiding the use of heated styling tools such as blow dryers or straighteners (if you have long curly or wavy hair), which can burn hair. Furthermore, when brushing or combing your hair to remove tangles, men should brush hair gently using a boar bristle brush without pulling or tugging that may damage roots. And if you already have long hair, we recommend you not strain the roots with tight ponytails or braids (cornrows).

Trim Your Hair 
While this may seem counterproductive, trimming your hair once every couple of months allows you to remove split ends and rejuvenate growth. Damaged ends basically stop growing so cutting off the tips to stimulate growth again makes sense. Just remember not to ask your barber to cut off too much – a quarter inch of hair is all that’s needed. 

Best Haircuts For Thin Hair 
Whether you have naturally fine hair or are experiencing the thinning process as you age, it’s important you learn how to pick the right hairstyle for your texture. But just because you’re losing hair doesn’t mean you can’t get a stylish hairstyle. The trick is fooling the eye. What makes people notice bald spots is contrast – having hair in one spot and then having none in close proximity. But what if you could make the transition gradual and avoid bringing attention to your bad hairline or thinning hair? For example, if you’re searching for trendy hairstyles for men with receding hairlines, don’t try to grow out your hair and cover it up with a comb over. Instead, get a high skin fade. This cool modern haircut starts blending your hair on the sides very high, thereby minimising the contrast. Another option would also be the faux hawk fade, where your barber would style your hair to meet in the middle of your head. As for the top, guys can get short or medium-length cuts depending on their personal preference, but we highly recommend they stick to a pomade or wax that is matte or low shine. Don’t use cheap gels because they tend to clump hair and show the scalp.

With so many different ways to combat slow hair growth or a thinning mane, guys don’t need to feel self-conscious about a bad hairdo. Between these subtle lifestyle changes to promote growth and hairstyles just for thin hair, you can feel confident about your sense of style again.


This article first appeared on Menswear Style